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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.